Carlotta - the museum database

1935.32.0085 :: repatrierat, avfört, väv

Object description

Material

varp bomull 2-tr S-tvin gulaktig 13 - 14 tr/cm

inslag bomull 2-tr S-tvin gulaktig 13- 14 tr/cm

broderi ull 2-tr S-tvin röd, grön, gul och m. lila sytt över 4 trådar och under 2.

frans samma som i broderiet.

Teknik Tunikan är sydd av ett tyg, se skiss i pärm. Vävbredd 53 cm, vävlängd 105 cm. Broderiet är stjälkstygn med vissa variationer. Det är 3 stycken smala båder som tllsammans bildar en bredare bård, varje liten bårds ena sida avslutas med en liten trädliknande söm som ligger vinkelrätt med själva bården och sydd med små stygn ner till över 1 under 1 tråd. På den andra sidan är det en rad stjälkstygn sydd åt motsatt håll mot det vanliga. på så sätt möts 2 rader i samma linje, det får effekten av att kanten står upp en aning.

Ärmhålen har ca 40 - 50 cm långa fransar gjorda på en grov bas tråd och fast sydd i tunikan, eventuellt gjord i två lager - den är "tjock".

Mönster Varje liten bård har en rad flygande små fåglar, ev kollibri med lång näbb. Alla i en rad "flyger" åt samma håll men nästa bårds fåglar är vända i motsatt riktning.

Utställd 1994 - 2000, monter 30.

Data elements
References (43)

Inventarienummer

1935.32.0085

generalkatalog-nr

56832

Tidigare identitet

313519; RT-043457

Sakord

avfört; repatrierat; väv

Sakord, engelska

tunic

Specialbenämning

broderad; göteborgssamlingen

Beskrivning

Material

varp bomull 2-tr S-tvin gulaktig 13 - 14 tr/cm

inslag bomull 2-tr S-tvin gulaktig 13- 14 tr/cm

broderi ull 2-tr S-tvin röd, grön, gul och m. lila sytt över 4 trådar och under 2.

frans samma som i broderiet.

Ärmhålen har ca 40 - 50 cm långa fransar gjorda på en grov bas tråd och fast sydd i tunikan, eventuellt gjord i två lager - den är "tjock".

Mönster Varje liten bård har en rad flygande små fåglar, ev kollibri med lång näbb. Alla i en rad "flyger" åt samma håll men nästa bårds fåglar är vända i motsatt riktning.

Utställd 1994 - 2000, monter 30.

Beskrivning, spanska

Uncu completo, de formato pequeño, constituido por un tejido llano de algodón color beige, doblado y cerrado formando aberturas para las mangas y cuello (MNAAHP lista)

Användningsområde

kategori

Sakord, spanska

Materialkategori

Bredd

125 cm [hel bredd]; 37 cm [fransar]; 53 cm

Längd

53 cm

Händelse - var närvarande vid

RAÄ gästkollegeprojekt Paracas (2013-2017)

Källor - http: collections.smvk.se

Repatriering till MNAAH, Lima, Peru, (5 december 2017)

Namn - donator

Anonym

Källor - http: collections.smvk.se

Namn - ägare

Nationalmuseet i Peru för arkeologi, antropologi och historia (MNAAHP)

Källor - http: collections.smvk.se, commons.wikimedia.org
Källor, Wikipedia - beskr. av: en.wikipedia.org

Tidpunkt - förvärv till museet

1935

Inlån - tidigare

in-1999.0001

Publicerad text, spanska

Túnica 1935.32.0085

Cada franja de la túnica contiene una hilera de pequeños pájaros volando. Los pájaros tienen pico largo y parecen ser colibrís. Todos los pájaros de una hilera vuelan hacia el mismo lado, pero en la siguiente franja vuelan hacia el lado contrario.

Material y técnica

Bordado de lana sobre tela de algodón de tejido llano a dos lizos. La túnica está confeccionada con una pieza de 53 cm de ancho y 105 cm de largo. El bordado está hecho en estilo de bloques de color y con punto de tallo.

Época y origen

Paracas Necrópolis, Intermedio Temprano 1.

Publicerad text

Kolibri tunika med fransar 1935.32.0085

Varje bård på tunikan innehåller en rad flygande små fåglar. Fåglarna har lång näbb och ser ut som kolibrier. Alla fåglar i en rad ”flyger” åt samma håll men nästa bårds fåglar är vända åt motsatt håll.

Material och teknik

Broderad med ullgarn på bomullstyg, vävt i tuskaft. Tunikan är sydd av ett stycke med bredd 53 cm och längd 105 cm. Broderiet är gjort i färgfältsstil och sytt med stjälkstygn.

Datering och ursprung

Paracas Nekropolis, Intermedio Temprano 1 (ca 100 f.kr – 100 e.kr)

Publicerad text, engelska

Hummingbird tunic with fringes 1935.32.0085

Each border of this tunic contains a row of small birds on the wing. They have long beaks and look like hummingbirds. All the birds in one row “fly” in the same direction, but those in the next border are turned in the opposite direction.

Material and technique

Embroidered in woollen yarn on plain-woven woollen fabric. The embroidery is in stem-stitch in colour-field style.

Dating and origin

Paracas Necropolis, Intermedio Temprano 1 (c. 100 BC – 100 AD)

; The combined analytical approach allowed us to formulate substantiated hypotheses on the mordants and other inorganic auxiliaries and the wide plethora of vegetal sources employed by the Paracas civilization for dyeing cotton and camelid fibres. The mild sample pre-treatment adopted was effective in extracting the dyes from the cotton and camelid fibres, and the consecutive application of HPLC–DAD and HPLC–HRMS techniques allowed us to assess the composition of the dyestuff for most of the samples. All the red threads were possibly dyed with Relbunium species, most likely Relbunium hypocarpium or a mixture containing this species. Animal dye sources, such as cochineal, were not detected in any sample. Besides alum, which cannot be detected by XRF mapping in air, both iron and copper have been detected in some red and yellow threads, and in the case of iron also in a grey shade. These results are consistent with previous work carried out on textile fragments [3] and suggest the deliberate use of iron and copper in various dye formulations. The blue, green and black samples were dyed with indigo-producing vegetal source such as Indigofera suffruticosa or Cybistax antisyphilitica species, alone or in combination with yellow dyes. Indigoid plants are the most commonly used sources of natural blue dyes, and the samples dyed with them contained a relevant amount of calcium, possibly used as an auxiliary in the vat dyeing process. While the source of yellow employed for dyeing the yellow threads are possibly the petals of Cosmos sulphureus, detected for the first time in historical textiles and maybe used with a copper mordant, the identification of the yellow raw material used in mixture with indigotin and indirubin in green, brown and black threads is not straightforward. The HPLC–HRMS profiles of these samples are rich in flavonoids and their relative glucosides, resembling those of Reseda luteola, a typical European dye plant. Among the hundreds of yellows available in the Andean area, all extracted from plants [29, 47], the composition of Salix Humboldtiana Wild closely resembles that of Reseda luteola. Thus, it is the most likely candidate raw source used for dyeing the Paracas samples. However, it is not possible to exclude other dye sources, not described nor characterized in detailed yet. Some brown threads and all white ones are undyed; thus, their colour is given by the natural colour of camelid or cotton. The grey sample is dyed by a luteolin based raw material and shows relatively high levels of both iron and zinc. The results reported in this paper contribute to filling the knowledge gap on the dyeing materials of Andean culture, providing important hints on the mordanting processes and recipes adopted in textiles manufacturing. (Sabatini, F. et al. 2020)The%20combined%20analytical%20approach%20allowed%20us%20to%20formulate%20substantiated%20hypotheses%20on%20the%20mordants%20and%20other%20inorganic%20auxiliaries%20and%20the%20wide%20plethora%20of%20vegetal%20sources%20employed%20by%20the%20Paracas%20civilization%20for%20dyeing%20cotton%20and%20camelid%20fibres.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe%20mild%20sample%20pre-treatment%20adopted%20was%20effective%20in%20extracting%20the%20dyes%20from%20the%20cotton%20and%20camelid%20fibres%2C%20and%20the%20consecutive%20application%20of%20HPLC%E2%80%93DAD%20and%20HPLC%E2%80%93HRMS%20techniques%20allowed%20us%20to%20assess%20the%20composition%20of%20the%20dyestuff%20for%20most%20of%20the%20samples.%0D%0A%0D%0AAll%20the%20red%20threads%20were%20possibly%20dyed%20with%20Relbunium%20species%2C%20most%20likely%20Relbunium%20hypocarpium%20or%20a%20mixture%20containing%20this%20species.%20Animal%20dye%20sources%2C%20such%20as%20cochineal%2C%20were%20not%20detected%20in%20any%20sample.%20Besides%20alum%2C%20which%20cannot%20be%20detected%20by%20XRF%20mapping%20in%20air%2C%20both%20iron%20and%20copper%20have%20been%20detected%20in%20some%20red%20and%20yellow%20threads%2C%20and%20in%20the%20case%20of%20iron%20also%20in%20a%20grey%20shade.%20These%20results%20are%20consistent%20with%20previous%20work%20carried%20out%20on%20textile%20fragments%20%5B3%5D%20and%20suggest%20the%20deliberate%20use%20of%20iron%20and%20copper%20in%20various%20dye%20formulations.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe%20blue%2C%20green%20and%20black%20samples%20were%20dyed%20with%20indigo-producing%20vegetal%20source%20such%20as%20Indigofera%20suffruticosa%20or%20Cybistax%20antisyphilitica%20species%2C%20alone%20or%20in%20combination%20with%20yellow%20dyes.%20Indigoid%20plants%20are%20the%20most%20commonly%20used%20sources%20of%20natural%20blue%20dyes%2C%20and%20the%20samples%20dyed%20with%20them%20contained%20a%20relevant%20amount%20of%20calcium%2C%20possibly%20used%20as%20an%20auxiliary%20in%20the%20vat%20dyeing%20process.%0D%0A%0D%0AWhile%20the%20source%20of%20yellow%20employed%20for%20dyeing%20the%20yellow%20threads%20are%20possibly%20the%20petals%20of%20Cosmos%20sulphureus%2C%20detected%20for%20the%20first%20time%20in%20historical%20textiles%20and%20maybe%20used%20with%20a%20copper%20mordant%2C%20the%20identification%20of%20the%20yellow%20raw%20material%20used%20in%20mixture%20with%20indigotin%20and%20indirubin%20in%20green%2C%20brown%20and%20black%20threads%20is%20not%20straightforward.%20The%20HPLC%E2%80%93HRMS%20profiles%20of%20these%20samples%20are%20rich%20in%20flavonoids%20and%20their%20relative%20glucosides%2C%20resembling%20those%20of%20Reseda%20luteola%2C%20a%20typical%20European%20dye%20plant.%20Among%20the%20hundreds%20of%20yellows%20available%20in%20the%20Andean%20area%2C%20all%20extracted%20from%20plants%20%5B29%2C%2047%5D%2C%20the%20composition%20of%20Salix%20Humboldtiana%20Wild%20closely%20resembles%20that%20of%20Reseda%20luteola.%20Thus%2C%20it%20is%20the%20most%20likely%20candidate%20raw%20source%20used%20for%20dyeing%20the%20Paracas%20samples.%20However%2C%20it%20is%20not%20possible%20to%20exclude%20other%20dye%20sources%2C%20not%20described%20nor%20characterized%20in%20detailed%20yet.%0D%0A%0D%0ASome%20brown%20threads%20and%20all%20white%20ones%20are%20undyed%3B%20thus%2C%20their%20colour%20is%20given%20by%20the%20natural%20colour%20of%20camelid%20or%20cotton.%20The%20grey%20sample%20is%20dyed%20by%20a%20luteolin%20based%20raw%20material%20and%20shows%20relatively%20high%20levels%20of%20both%20iron%20and%20zinc.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe%20results%20reported%20in%20this%20paper%20contribute%20to%20filling%20the%20knowledge%20gap%20on%20the%20dyeing%20materials%20of%20Andean%20culture%2C%20providing%20important%20hints%20on%20the%20mordanting%20processes%20and%20recipes%20adopted%20in%20textiles%20manufacturing.%20%28Sabatini%2C%20F.%20et%20al.%202020%29

Världsdel - ursprung

Sydamerika

Land - ursprung

Peru

Källor, Wikipedia - beskr. av: sv.wikipedia.org
Geonames-referens: sws.geonames.org

Proveniens

Paracas, Peru

Teknik - tillverkning

Bottenväv: 14 tr/cm varp och inslag; Broderi: över 4 tr under 2 tr med variationer längst bårderna; Frans: grov tvinnad frans som ”ärmar” ca 30 cm långa; Frans: nertill 11 cm och en kortare på 2 cm

Typ & teknik: typ